![]() ![]() Multiply your decrease amount by your sts/inch, et voila, you have the total number of stitches you need to decrease. To take this number and translate it into stitches, you’ll need your gauge, broken down into sts/inch. Using my own measurements as an example, my personal formula would be 51″ – 46″ = 5″. This number is the total amount you need to decrease. Take your full bust measurement and subtract your waist measurement from it. However, you can definitely apply the same formula to bottom up sweaters, you’d just be increasing rather than decreasing, and you’ll have to know the measurement from where the hem of the top ends to your waist. To take this measurement, loosely tie some yarn/string/elastic around your natural waist, and measure from your nipple to that yarn/string/elastic, following the contours of your bust.ĭon’t forget to have your gauge handy, as well!īecause the most popular method of knitting sweaters at the moment seems to be top-down and in the round, and because that’s where most of my experience lies, I will be explaining everything from that construction. You’ll need the measurement from your bust point to your waist. You’ll need the measurement from the side seam of a thin t-shirt to your bust point (your nipples). If I decreased from my full bust measurement of 51″ to my underbust measurement of 40″, then I’d have 6″ of negative ease at my waist, and little space to increase for that. ![]() My nipples hang about 6″ below where my underbust measurement is taken, and stop about 1″ above my waistline. Using my own body as an example: I have ginormous, low hanging boobs. However, because I’m writing this specifically for fat people, I’d suggest using your waist measurement. You could use your underbust measurement, which is what I’ve always seen suggested in how-to’s. Does the front sit higher than the back? Is the garment tight at the bust but loose or baggy at the waist? If the answer is yes, you might want to try bust darts.īust out your measuring tapes, and let’s get your basic measurements taken! You’ll need your full bust measurement, taken while wearing a well fitting bra at the widest point. The easiest way to tell is to look at your garments, knitted or otherwise. If you have a large bust compared to your waist, you probably need bust darts. The bust is the most common area darts are used often (but not always!) more fabric is needed for the bust than the underbust and waist. I’ll be covering short rows in another blog post, coming to a screen near you soonish.īefore I dive into the meat and potatoes of this crash course to knitted bust darts, let’s hit the FAQS.Ī dart is used to create a more fitted silhouette in garments by adding ease where it is needed, and taking in ease where it isn’t needed. If you’re wanting to keep the front of a boxy sweater from riding up, then short rows are a better option. ![]() That being said, it’s my opinion that vertical darts are better for fitted garments. There’s less math, they require way less thinking in the actual knitting, and I think they look quite attractive. I prefer these over short row bust darts, like a lot. This post will cover vertical bust darts. This also looks like a ton of information, and that can be overwhelming, but the actual math involved only takes a few minutes, I promise. Just like you might have to knit ten pairs of socks before you figure out your perfect fit, you might have to knit bust darts ten times before you get the fit just right – but don’t let that stop you! Figuring out how to knit bust darts has been a game changer for the fit of my sweaters, and the more you knit them, the easier they become. My intentions with this are to get the basics of bust darts out there, where you can adjust them to fit your individual needs. While I wish I could create a blog post that was personalized to each individual body, that’s as unrealistic as designers being able to create patterns that will work without alterations for every body. ![]()
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